Topical Adaptogens

The cosmeceutical sector continues to evolve in response to increasing consumer demand for high-performance skincare that bridges the gap between aesthetic enhancement and therapeutic benefit. Cosmeceuticals are defined as topical formulations containing bioactive substances that exert pharmaceutical-like effects while enhancing cosmetic appearance. Established active ingredients—such as retinoids, peptides, hyaluronic acid, antioxidants such as vitamins C and B derivatives, and sunscreens—are well supported by scientific and clinical data and remain foundational in dermatologic skincare.

A promising and emerging category within this space is that of topical adaptogens—bioactive agents originally defined for their equilibrating, nonspecific, stress-resilience effects and now being explored for their cutaneous, restorative, and regenerative properties.

The term “adaptogen” was first introduced by Russian toxicologist Nikolai Lazarev in 1958 to describe substances—either natural or synthetic—that increase the body’s resistance to physical, chemical, and biological stressors while promoting homeostasis.¹ Over time, this concept has evolved.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recognizes adaptogens as metabolic regulators that enhance the body’s ability to adapt to environmental stressors; they are not currently regulated as a distinct class of therapeutic agents.³

THE SHIFT TO SKIN: ADAPTOGENS AS TOPICAL BIOACTIVES

More recently, the potential application of adaptogens in cutaneous medicine and aesthetic dermatology has gained momentum. Emerging studies have identified adaptogenic botanicals as potentially beneficial in managing inflammatory dermatoses such as acne, eczema, and psoriasis, as well as in conditions of scalp dysfunction and pigmentary disorders.³

These pathways position adaptogens as compelling topical agents in the prevention and treatment of extrinsic skin aging, oxidative damage, and environmentally induced cutaneous stress.

AESTHETIC AND REJUVENATING POTENTIAL

From an aesthetic perspective, topical adaptogens may contribute to improvements in:⁴

• Skin tone (via brightening and antipigmentary activity)
• Texture (through antioxidant and barrier-repair functions)
• Firmness and elasticity (via collagen-supportive and anti-inflammatory pathways)

In a multicenter, 12-week trial evaluating an adaptogenic serum, results demonstrated mean percent improvements from baseline in erythema, dullness, texture, pore size, and uneven pigmentation after application of the adaptogenic serum, comprised of various adaptogens.⁴ An additional study evaluating the same adaptogenic serum in vivo demonstrated an increase in biomarkers, such as aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), thioredoxin reductase 1(TrxR1), metallothionein 1A, metallothionein 1F (MT1F), and metallothionein 1G (MT1G), playing a key role in skin homeostasis. Their results revealed that increased expression of these biomarkers in comparison to the control group resulted in enhanced support of cellular and epidermal homeostasis, enhanced skin adaptive response to stress and immune homeostasis, and increased inhibition of oxidative stress-induced senescence.⁵ Furthermore, another evaluation performed an in vitro and clinical study on a topical preparation containing adaptogens to determine the induced protective functions in human skin when the skin is exposed to intrinsic and extrinsic stressors. Subsequently, the in vitro results demonstrated reduced expression of stress gene biomarkers (p53, pro-inflammatory cytokines, interleukin-1 beta and tumor necrosis factor-alpha, and pro-apoptotic BCL2-associated X apoptosis regulator) enhanced stress response by activating heat shock transcription factor 4 and heat shock protein family B (small) member 1 by increasing the expression of heme oxygenase 1 (HMOX1), while their clinical results revealed reduced intensity of erythema.⁶

As consumer interest shifts toward holistic, plant-powered, and stress-resilient skincare, adaptogen-infused formulations are increasingly sought after for their perceived ability to support both aesthetic results and skin longevity.⁷

A GROWING COSMECUTICALS OPPORTUNITY

With a growing body of scientific support and strong consumer appeal, topical adaptogens represent a rapidly expanding category in dermatologic cosmeceuticals. Their ability to support skin stamina, reduce inflammation, and optimize skin equilibrium via skin barrier protection and repair makes them a valuable addition to the skincare armamentarium for aesthetic providers. Their optimal potential can be realized in reactive and aging skin as well as peri-procedure.^5,8

As research continues to evolve and mechanisms of action are further elucidated, adaptogens are positioned not just as a cosmetic trend but as evidence-informed bioactive agents for comprehensive skin resilience and rejuvenation.

Here are a few skin care lines demonstrating their adaptogenic cosmeceutical potential:

• SkinBetter Science Mystro Active Balance Serum
• Pavise Bioadaptive Stress Repair
• Stamina Intention Moisturize
• No. 7 Derm Solutions Daily Lightweight Moisturizer
• Bioelements Beyond Hydration
• Topical Skin Phyto AOX Facial Oil N10
• Nutrafol Hair Serum

CONCLUSION

Adaptogens represent a compelling new frontier in cosmetic dermatology. Their versatile biological activity and skin-supportive properties suggest broad utility in enhancing aesthetic outcomes while promoting long-term skin health-span. As formulations become more sophisticated and data-driven, adaptogens are poised to become essential players in next-generation cosmeceutical design.

1. Lazarev NV. Obshchee i spetsificheskoe v deistvii farmakologicheskikh sredstv [General and specific effects of drugs]. Farmakol Toksikol. 1958;21(3):81-86.

2. Panossian AG, Efferth T, Shikov AN, et al. Evolution of the adaptogenic concept from traditional use to medical systems: Pharmacology of stress- and aging-related diseases. Med Res Rev. 2021;41(1):630-703. doi:10.1002/med.21743

3. Liu XX, Chen CY, Li L, et al. Bibliometric Study of Adaptogens in Dermatology: Pharmacophylogeny, Phytochemistry, and Pharmacological Mechanisms. Drug Des Devel Ther. 2023;17:341-361. Published 2023 Feb 6. doi:10.2147/DDDT.S395256

4. Draelos ZD, Grimes PE, Watchmaker J, Nelson DB. A Multi-center Trial Evaluating a Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Targeting Skin Quality. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2024;17(2):15-19.

5. Draelos ZD, Grimes PE, Watchmaker J, Nelson DB. Gene Expression Analysis of a Topical Serum Comprised of Plant-based Adaptogens Developed to Support Homeostasis and Skin Quality. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2024;17(2):43-46.

6. Diwakar G, Barnes L, Riggs M, Knaggs H, Draelos ZD. Plant-Derived Extracts Plus Vitamin E and/or Aloe Vera Protect Against Intrinsic/Extrinsic Stressor in Human Skin: In Vitro and Clinical Evidence. Front Biosci (Landmark Ed). 2023;28(12):366. doi:10.31083/j.fbl2812366

7. Datta HS, Paramesh R. Trends in aging and skin care: Ayurvedic concepts. J Ayurveda Integr Med. 2010;1(2):110-113. doi:10.4103/0975-9476.65081

8. Blyumin-Karasik M, Colon J, Nguyen S, Rosen J. Laser and Skin-Care Synergy: A Post-Laser Application of Novel Adaptogenic Moisturizing Serum for Improving Healing and Cosmesis on the Face. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(2):e16668. doi:10.1111/jocd.16668