Skin Flooding: A Dermatologist’s Guide to the Latest Hydration Hack

The ever-evolving world of social media throws up new skincare trends at a dizzying pace. One of the latest buzzwords is “skin flooding,” referring to a not-so-new technique that promises to deliver ultra-hydrated, plump skin. While this might pique the interest of your patients, being equipped with the knowledge to guide them effectively is important.

WHAT IS SKIN FLOODING?

Skin flooding involves layering skincare products specifically formulated for hydration onto damp skin. It generally involves applying products containing hyaluronic acid before moisturizer in a skincare routine. Skin flooding can be used as a primer for other products, such as vitamin C serum, as well. Many proponents believe this approach maximizes moisture absorption, resulting in a dewy, supple complexion. The typical routine involves:

Cleansing: Thorough cleansing to remove dirt and oil without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier.

Misting: A hydrating facial mist, such as hyaluronic acid, spring water, and/or aloe vera, is applied to damp skin to create a base for subsequent layers.

Layering serums: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and niacinamide are popular choices for their humectant and moisture-boosting properties.1,2,3

Moisturizer: An occlusive moisturizer, such as petrolatum or shea butter, is used to seal in all the applied hydration.4

SETTING EXPECTATIONS

While social media portrays skin flooding as a one-size-fits-all solution, a personalized approach is essential. Here is how to effectively consult with your patients about this trend:

Understand their motivations: Is their skin dehydrated or simply lacking a glow?

Assess their skin type: Oily skin might not fare well with heavy occlusive moisturizers.

Discuss realistic expectations: Skin flooding can improve hydration, but it will not erase wrinkles or acne scars permanently. Discuss options to treat those concerns and highlight realistic expectations.

Educate on product selection: Hyaluronic acid is a great humectant, but don’t forget to recommend products formulated for their specific skin concerns (eg, hyperpigmentation/dark spots, scarring, etc).5

Stress the importance of a balanced routine: Cleansing, sun protection, and a consistent skincare regimen are crucial for healthy skin.

MYTHS VS FACTS

Myth: More layers equal more hydration.

Fact: Excessive product layering can have detrimental effects on the skin, including occlusion and comedogenesis. Heavy layers, especially those with occlusive ingredients, can trap sweat, sebum, and bacteria within pores, leading to the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and potentially exacerbating acne. Products with a high comedogenic index will likely clog pores.5

Myth: Skin flooding works for everyone.

Fact: Skin flooding may not be suitable for all skin types. Individuals with sensitive skin or existing skin conditions are at increased risk for adverse reactions. Both irritant and allergic contact dermatitis can occur due to the layering of products or exposure to potential allergens within the formulas.6 Skin flooding also may worsen conditions such as rosacea, eczema, or acne due to the potential for irritation and occlusion.7

Myth: Skin flooding replaces the need for moisturizer.

Fact: An occlusive moisturizer/emollient is key to locking in all the applied hydration.8,9

THE SCIENCE BEHIND SKIN FLOODING

Some scientific basis supports skin flooding. Damp skin might enhance the penetration of certain water-soluble ingredients. Moisturizing with emollients can have the potential to help reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).8,9,10 However, more research is required to determine its long-term effects and effectiveness for different skin types.

ALTERNATIVES TO SKIN FLOODING

For patients hesitant about layering, suggest these effective alternatives:

Humectant-rich moisturizers: Look for formulas containing glycerin, honey, sodium lactate, urea, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and/or gelatin.8.9,11

Sheet masks: These deliver a concentrated dose of hydration in a single application.

Professional treatments: Hyaluronic acid fillers or facials can provide deeper hydration.

EDUCATE AND EMPOWER

Skin flooding can be a helpful technique for those seeking extra hydration. However, a personalized approach and realistic expectations are key. By understanding this trend and educating your patients, you can empower them to make informed choices for healthy, glowing skin.

1. Essendoubi M, Gobinet C, Reynaud R, Angiboust JF, Manfait M, Piot O. Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Res Technol. 2016 Feb;22(1):55-62. doi: 10.1111/srt.12228. Epub 2015 Apr 16. PMID: 25877232.

2. Pedersen LK, Jemec GB. Plasticising effect of water and glycerin on human skin in vivo. J Dermatol Sci. 1999 Jan;19(1):48-52. doi: 10.1016/s0923-1811(98)00050-4. PMID: 9890375.

3. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006 Jun;8(2):96-101. doi: 10.1080/14764170600717704. PMID: 16766489.

4. Morrison DS. Petrolatum: a useful classic. Cosmet Toil. 1996;111:59- 69

5. Waranuch N, Wisutthathum S, Tuanthai S, Kittikun P, Grandmottet F, Tay F, Viyoch J. Safety assessment on comedogenicity of dermatological products containing d-alpha tocopheryl acetate in Asian subjects: A double-blind randomized controlled trial. Contemp Clin Trials Commun. 2021 Aug 19;23:100834. doi: 10.1016/j.conctc.2021.100834. PMID: 34471722; PMCID: PMC8387765.

6. González-Muñoz P, Conde-Salazar L, Vañó-Galván S. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic products. Actas Dermosifiliogr. 2014 Nov;105(9):822-32. English, Spanish. doi: 10.1016/j.ad.2013.12.018. Epub 2014 Mar 20. PMID: 24656778.

7. Huang YX, Li J, Zhao ZX, Zheng BL, Deng YX, Shi W, Steinhoff M, Xie HF. Effects of skin care habits on the development of rosacea: A multi-center retrospective case-control survey in Chinese population. PLoS One. 2020 Apr 27;15(4):e0231078. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0231078. PMID: 32339170; PMCID: PMC7185582.

8. van Zuuren EJ, Fedorowicz Z, Christensen R, Lavrijsen A, Arents BWM. Emollients and moisturisers for eczema. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2017 Feb 6;2(2):CD012119. doi: 10.1002/14651858.CD012119.pub2. PMID: 28166390; PMCID: PMC6464068.

9. Danby SG, Andrew PV, Taylor RN, Kay LJ, Chittock J, Pinnock A, Ulhaq I, Fasth A, Carlander K, Holm T, Cork MJ. Different types of emollient cream exhibit diverse physiological effects on the skin barrier in adults with atopic dermatitis. Clin Exp Dermatol. 2022 Jun;47(6):1154-1164. doi: 10.1111/ced.15141. Epub 2022 Apr 12. PMID: 35167133; PMCID: PMC9322554.

10. Spencer TS. Dry skin and skin moisturizers. Clin Dermatol. 1988;6:24-28.

11. Anderson PC, Dinulos JG. Are the new moisturizers more effective? Curr Opin Pediatr. 2009;21:486-490.